Master documentarian Frederick Wiseman’s latest film, Menus-Plaisirs– Les Troisgros, is a film about the Troisgros family and their three restaurants: Troisgros, Le Central and Colline, located in three neighboring locations in bucolic central France. Troisgros is a legendary restaurant, founded 93 years ago with a sustaining 3-star Michelin rating for the past 55 years. In 2020, Troisgros was awarded a Michelin green star for exemplary sustainable practices. Much of the film takes place at Troisgros.
The present chef, Cesar Troisgros, is the fourth generation of the family to be in charge at Troisgros. The film shows the day-to-day operations involving the purchase, preparation and service at this restaurant, including visits to a cheese processing plant, a vineyard, a cattle ranch working on best farming practices, and an organic farmer whose farm, along with the garden of the restaurant, provides organic produce for the restaurants. The Troisgros family’s interest in biodiversity is illustrated in their choice and preparation of their distinctive menu and their efforts to reduce food waste.
The film shows the great artistry, ingenuity, imagination, and hard work of the restaurant staff in creating, preparing, and presenting meals of the highest quality. Additionally, the collaboration within the Troisgros family is evident as the father, Michel, transfers the leadership in the kitchen to his son, Cesar and collaborates with his wife, who runs the hotel and his other son who runs La Colline.
As is his style, Wiseman – a pioneer of “direct cinema” – is unobtrusive, using the camera to observe and document the subjects, rather than critique them. This is his 46th film. There are many classics on that list, and Menu-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros, is now among them.